Each Cook Ought to Study At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on List of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.